Tuesday, January 6, 2009

Campania


Peter and I have been in Campania now for 6 days (1 unfortunate night in Naples and 5 in Sorrento).  

Luckily it's been a bit warmer here than it was in Florence so we've been able to get around and see the coast without freezing!  The first few days it rained so our visit to the Amalfi coast was a bit dreary, and I think I wound up with a head cold.  But the past few days have been better.

We explored Herculaneum and Pompeii.  Like Pompeii-the more famous of the two towns.  Herculaneum was affected by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in AD 79, but because it is located closer to the volcano, the town was completely covered in boiling hot mud, which kept the little town extremely intact for later excavations.  So intact that furniture and clothes remained in relatively good condition.  Pompeii, was covered in volcanic ash because it is further from the volcano.  Pompeii is also a lot larger than Herculaneum, and the frescos that were uncovered are very very funny and in remarkable condition, so is the city.  It has three amphitheaters and several temples, one brothel, several villas and tons of roads, homes and land they suspect were once gardens or vineyards.    Recently excavations found the ancient shoreline of Pompeii, which they discovered by uncovering about 300 skeletons.  People who had run from the volcanic eruption, but had been overtaken when they couldn't run any further.

Today we took a ferry to the island of Capri and hiked around the cliffs and down to the beaches, and explored Capri town.  Tomorrow we're leaving for Salerno, which is further south along Italy's coastline, from there we hope to catch a ferry to Sicily.  


Saturday, December 20, 2008

Leaving!

The internet has been down in Egypt for over 24 hours, but it just came back on. Evidently three internet cables were severed in the Mediterranean yesterday by anchors off the coast of Alexandria, Malta and near the Suez Canal...yeah I don't really get it either. But we're back online now, however the internet's still limited. I guess the entire Middle East and parts of Asia were effected.

Anyway, Peter's on campus taking his last final now, I have to take a bus to campus tomorrow at 6:40 am (grr) in order to take my 8:30 Islamic Philosophy final. Then I'm meeting Peter back at the dorm to catch our flight at 2:45 to Italy where we meet his family for Christmas!

Merry Christmas everyone! I'm going to miss being home, but mom told me she was going to give me Christmas when I get home in a month..so don't forget. :)

From Jordan to Israel to Egypt

We took a micro bus from Petra to Amman, Jordan's capital, and arrived about three hours later. When we got to Amman we were planning on taking another bus to the Jordanian/Israeli border but we found a taxi driver who was willing to take all four of us directly to the border for just as cheap. It didn't really matter how we got there, just as long as we made it before the border closed later that day for the three day Muslim holiday. So it was a race against time. The taxi ride ended up taking another two hours, but I think the driver was secretly willing to drive us there for so little because of the beautiful landscape. There is a mountain range that runs along the Israeli/Jordanian border, the southern half of the mountain range is desert while the northern half is lush and green. The valleys are farmed meticulously, so we stopped a few times to take in the view, and were able to see Israel on the horizon.

After driving down the mountainside into the valley we got to the border with two hours to spare. There is about 5 kilometers of no-man's-land between the two countries at this point so we had to hop into another taxi and be driven across. Halfway across no-man's-land we had to get out of the taxi and take an Israeli bus through to the other side, where we were once again welcomed by the lovely Israeli border patrol soldiers. It took Peter about 10 minutes longer to get through because he was carrying around dangerous weapons.

Ha ha ha. Just kidding, he was carrying a laptop. I almost got stopped though because the border patrol officer-who looked 18-started drilling me on my ID information. She asked me what city I was born in, so I told her Fairmont. She shook her head and said "WRONG you were born in the city of Minnesota" I told her "Minnesota is a State" (you idiot). And I got through just fine.

From the border we took three more buses before we arrived 3 hours later at the city of Tiberias on the Sea of Galilee. We found our hostel really easily and took a nap before going out to chow down on amazing local food. We watched the sunset over the mountains surrounding the sea and finished our day by watching Wall-E.

The next morning we got up early and rented four mountain bikes and biked up the western shore of the Sea, until we reached a few biblical landmarks where churches were built in commemoration. The first was a church where Jesus supposedly broke the break and fish and fed 5,000. There was a sanctuary built around the rock where he sat, and a courtyard with a few baptismal fonts. Up the road aways, along the northern shore was another chapel commemorating the site were Jesus called (Saint) Peter to carry on his ministry. It's an extremely important site for Catholics especially who consider Peter the first pope. (we ran into a lot of Spanish speakers here, ha).

"And I tell you that you are Peter, and on this rock I will build my church, and the gates of Hades will not overcome it." Matthew 16:18

We spent alot of time here because the beach was particularly nice. It's not surprising this is where scholars believed Jesus frequently visited. We also saw the Mount of Beatitudes where Jesus preached his Sermon on the Mount. I continued up the northern coast alone to check out the ruins of Capernaum. Then we biked back to Tiberias, the trip was probably 15 miles roundtrip, but it was fairly difficult considering we were biking up and down steep hills on mountain bikes, I wanted my road bike so badly after that trip!

The next day we were planning on doing another biking trip, but it was raining so we left. Up to this point there were four of us on the trip. Peter and I split with the other two at this point (Kurt and Sterling). They took a bus directly to Tel Aviv, Peter and I decided to go to Nazareth. Nazareth was just as soggy as Tiberias. So we ran around the cobblestone streets trying to find the Basilica commemorating the spot where the angel Gabriel supposedly appeared to Mary and where Jesus was conceived. The basilica standing there now, is the fifth one on the site. It is build on top of the old ones sheltering them. It was like walking into what the city had once been 1500 years ago. The church is also the biggest in the Middle East. Other than then I thought it was really ugly. So we left the church and found a schwarma place run by an Arab family (we can read arabic now/ converse limitedly so it was a relief to do that again..since we know no Hebrew).

Nazareth is an interesting city because about half of the population is Christian, and the other half is Muslim. For the most part, I doubt that they have any problem living homogeneously, however there was a banner we saw in front of the basilica citing the verse from the Quran that says Allah has never begotten a son. So we took a picture.

We waited in the rain for a bus down to Tel Aviv for about 2 hours before one showed up. We ended up in Tel Aviv about 3 hours later, at the bus station where I lost my passport last time... so we knew our way around. Peter and I decided to spend a few days in the ancient port city of Jaffa, which has existed for thousand and thousands of years before Tel Aviv. Jaffa's been swallowed up by Tel Aviv's urban sprawl, but it is still intact and beautiful.

We saw some ancient ruins, played in the Mediterranean Sea, ate really good local street food, and sat on grass!! (there's no grass in Cairo). We met up with Kurt and Sterling again and went to the Chocolate Bar, this swanky place with a menu full of chocolate concoctions, yum yum yum! After two days of Jaffa, we reluctantly left the Mediterranean Sea behind to take another stuffy bus back down to the Red Sea and Egypt, we made it across the border in time to catch another bus across the Sinai Penninsula and be back in Cairo two days before finals started.

Wednesday, December 17, 2008

Monday, November 17, 2008

Alexandria

Hello!


Sorry we haven’t blogged in awhile. It’s about that time of the semester when we’ve just survived mid-terms and are beginning our research papers for each class. Anyway, we managed to make it up to Alexandria two weeks ago and spend the weekend there. Alexandria’s by far the closest destination to Cairo. Although it’s 135 miles away, it was a fast trip for two reasons: first, we were able to catch a train and be there in two hours, and second it was the first place we’ve been to outside of Cairo where we didn’t have scar our eyes by looking at desert everywhere (due to the fact that Alexandria’s in the green Nile basin). We actually saw grass and farmland!


Our train left on Thursday night at 7, which means we cut ourselves a little short on time. And this is why. The time it takes to travel from our dormitory to our campus every morning is a quick one-hour. However the time it takes to travel from our campus to our dormitory after classes takes about twice as long due to traffic and psychotic drivers (one of our school buses hit a tractor last month going full speed when the tractor decided to cross the street directly in front of the bus.) Anyway that’s a different story.


My class ends at 4:30 on Thursdays, the next bus leaves at 5. Leaving me two hours to get back to the dorms and take a cab to the train station. Luckily the bus only took 1 hour and 30 minutes that day. Leaving 30 minutes to get to the station. We hopped in a cab and got stuck in traffic on the bridge crossing the Nile for about 20 minutes and arrived at the square where the train station is located at exactly 7. But of course that would be too easy. First we had to hop a fence and play frogger across three huge streets in order to make it across the square. We managed to do that in 5 minutes and ran into the station just as the train was leaving. So we had to run and hop onto the train (luckily before it had picked up much speed) than nudge our way through about 10 train cars before we found ours…then we had to kick some men out of our seats. But we did it, and made it to Alexandria at about 10 pm.


The next day we walked up and down the Mediterranean most of the day and made it to Qaitbay Citadel which is basically a castle, and explore that for a few hours. We found some tourists who were on a cruise in the Mediterranean…and Peter immediately started talking to a few men about religion and politics (yeah). So I started a separate conversation with their wives who were looking about as uncomfortable as I was.


After the Citadel we walked to the new Alexandria Library, which opened four years ago. It only cost 2 Egyptian pounds to enter (about 40 cents) because we’re students in Egypt. This is about ten times cheaper for people who aren’t students. The library was packed with students sitting everywhere studying. We weren’t allowed to bring our own books into the library, which didn’t matter because the library probably had whatever we wanted to bring inside. It was huge and doubled as a museum. So we spent a few hours there. Unfortunately it was Friday (holy day) so the library closed earlier. So we walked back and ate pork for the first time in 2 months at a Chinese Restaurant on top of a hotel overlooking the Mediterranean.


The next day we wandered around Alexandria’s streets before catching a cab to Pompey’s Pillar. Pompey’s Pillar is the name of the only part of the Ptolemaic Temple of Serapis that was left standing after the Christians invaded the temple 1700 years ago. The temple also doubled as the second library in Alexandria, containing 700,000 scrolls. Unfortunately the first temple of Alexandria was completely destroyed leaving no remains. After we got tired of looking at a pillar (with two random sphinxes thrown in for tourists) we walked to the Roman catacombs.


The catacombs were built for a family in the second century AD, and were used for three hundred years to accommodate more than 300 hundred corpses. Unfortunately we couldn’t take pictures, but I’ll try to be descriptive.


The catacombs were discovered accidentally in 1900 after a donkey disappeared through the ground. They are 35 meters deep and contain 25 chambers, including one large room called the Triclinium, used as a banquet hall for paying last respects to the deceased. The lowest level of the catacombs are flooded with water, but the level we were able to explore only got soggy in a few areas, and was well lit.


After leaving the catacombs we walked to the Roman Amphitheatre discovered fairly recently when ground was being cleared for an apartment complex on top of it. So we sat in the theatre for about an hour, and made a friend with a cat. Evidently it is the only Roman amphitheatre in Egypt.


Unfortunately the only ruins in Alexandria were the ones we visited, meaning there aren’t that many to see. However there are excellent dive sites right off the coast of the city where a lot of ancient Alexandria is now located.


After the seeing amphitheatre we took a train back to Cairo and were welcomed by smog, dust, noise, and traffic!